The two main categories that bits fall into, are the snaffle bit and the leverage bit. First lets start with how to define a snaffle. A snaffle is designed so that the reins have direct contact with the horses mouth. A snaffle does not have a shank and applies no leverage. Simply put a snaffle is made up of a mouthpiece and rings that allows the rider to bend the horse to the right or left ( for example pulling the right rein will direct the horse to the right ). Most snaffle mouthpieces are jointed in the middle and work much like a nutcracker would. Some snaffles are made with a solid mouthpiece but these bits are primarily used for driving horses in harness.

The primary pressure point of the snaffle is the tongue followed by the bars of the jaw and then the corner of the mouth. The beauty of the snaffle is its simplicity and straight forward design; every pound of pressure /pull from the rider's hand equals the same amount of pressure to the horses mouth. The snaffle helps the horse to understand the directional message the rider is communicating by the reins. The other major design advantage of the jointed mouthpiece is that it primarily applies pressure to the tongue helping to protect the integrity of the bars.

One of the most important lessons we teach the untrained horse when we introduce bit pressure is how to release from the pressure. In the beginning when schooling the untrained horse we have to use more pressure to get the desired results. Once the horse begins to comprehend the riders message through consistent repetition and reward, we are able to obtain the desired results with less pressure. I like to say we school to lightness by asking for a given response using less and less pressure.

There are different types of snaffles. The two most popular styles are the D-ring a fixed-butt, where the mouthpiece doesn't rotate around the ring and the loose-ring where the mouthpiece slides around the ring. The D-ring style of snaffle applies pressure over a wider area on the opposite side of the face and is generally considered a milder snaffle then the O-ring bit which concentrates more pressure in a smaller area.

The main factor in determining the severity of a snaffle is the diameter and shape of the mouthpiece. My rule of thumb is the larger the diameter of the mouthpiece the milder the action. A 5/8th diameter mouthpiece is generally a good size to start a young horse in. The smaller diameter stock combined with a variety of twists ( i.e. twisted wire, French twist, fishback) are more severe and should only be used sparingly. Once I've established an understanding with the horse on how to yield from pressure, I will sometimes move the horse into a twisted snaffle on a short term basis to help lighten it up and be more responsive. One word of caution, do not keep the horse in a twisted wire type bit, if you do the horse will develop calluses in the corner of its mouth increasing its pain tolerance and requiring an even more severe bit. This cycle creates a no-win situation for both horse and rider.

The two metals I prefer in a mouthpiece are sweet iron ( cold milled steel, a porous metal that rusts) and copper. For the best results, I like a bit that combines both metals. The combination of the two encourages the horse to salivate which lubricates the mouth, helping to protect the soft gum tissue. One of the drawbacks of using copper only for the mouthpiece stock, is that copper is a soft metal and over time will develop sharp edges from the horse chewing on it and/or break apart.

Another question I'm asked with some frequency is where to position the bit in the horses mouth? My suggestion is to adjust the bridal so the snaffle just makes contact with the corner of the mouth. This allows for a better feel and helps to keep that pressure point more sensitive. This encourages the horse to carry the bit with its lips and tongue, allowing for more effective communication between horse and rider.

In my next column, I will explain the transition from the snaffle to leverage bit and how the leverage bit differs in design and function. Plus some interesting tips on indirect reining.